Brunch Porn for Your Weekend Enjoyment

This weekend don’t forget the most important meal of the week. Here’s a mouth-watering example of it’s import: two poached eggs over cheese grits with house made pork sausage and smoked pork jus. And of course a savory bloody Mary.

This week’s brunch porn is from Cookshop in Chelsea, N.Y.

What’s your favorite brunch spot?

Hibiscus Tea Me

After a bike ride to the Fort Greene’s Brooklyn Flea on Saturday I was darn parched so I rolled up to these fine ladies doling out exotic tonic and got myself a frosty glass of …  hibiscus tea!

The taste: Slightly sweet, a bit tart, a little cranberryish. Perfect at $2.

The Effect: People drink hibiscus tea all over the world, especially in the Middle East, Africa, Latin America and the Caribbean. It’s sometimes used as a mild medicine and it’s been found to reduce cholesterol and blood pressure. Even better.

The Best of Richmond: A Filling Farewell

I was asked a sort of dying wish, repeatedly, during my last few weeks in Richmond, Va. Where do you want to eat before you go? But after 10 years in Richmond, it was just too hard to decide. Did I want a Chiocca’s Chicken Coup sub? Of course. The lobster puff-pastry egg dish at Millie’s Diner? Heck yeah. White bean, garlic, arugula heaven at Mamma Zu? Absolutely. But alas, there was neither time nor money for everything. But luckily I did get to a few last suppers.

Colorful Cuban spot Kuba Kuba served the most satisfying send-off lunch. My friend and I hungrily ordered black-bean soup and avocado salad (she) and a pressed Cuban sandwich and salad (me). At any lesser establishment there would have been plenty of elbow room. But god love Kuba Kuba. Your arteries, not so much.

For dessert, I couldn’t pass up Kuba Kuba’s famous tres leches cake made by the owner’s mom. (An interesting aside: My office was nice enough to try and order an entire tres leches cake for my send off but the cakes were booked two months out!) So naturally, I had to take matters into my own hands (and mouth).

Another memorable send off took place over a leisurely brunch at Can Can Brasserie. What started off innocently enough with coffee and croissants soon took a turn when Champagne, oysters and pomme frites joined the party. There may have even been a cheeseburger on the table. But no shame here:  Can Can makes one hell of a cheeseburger. I hope I always remember that three-hour brunch with great friends, food and all of Richmond walking up Carytown past the window next to us.

Now I’m off to do some eating in New York.

 

I’ll Have What She’s Having

Occasionally in my work I get a little wined and dined, but never have I been so deliciously cheesed.

Reps from Gaylord National Resort, a new hotel-conference center on the Potomac River in Maryland, came to town to introduce Richmond press to their new jumbo facilities complete with 2,000 rooms, a rooftop lounge, water taxi to Old Town Alexandria and an 18-story glass atrium.

That was all well and good, but they had me at Maitre d’fromage. Yes, that’s right. A Maitre d’ just for cheese. Apparently Carolyn Stromberg is the only one of her kind on the East Coast, but the post is common in civilized places like France.

The knowledgeable Stromberg seeks out artisanal cheeses from all over the world, learns their tales, gets to know their makers, then ages their cheeses in a glass-enclosed cave in her resort’s Old Hickory Steakhouse and presents them to the public. She’s pretty much my idol. The Cabot cheddar I’m eating while writing this is making matters worse. 

So back to the lunch: Stromberg served us the most incredible cheese plate accompanied by several glasses of sparkling Cremant du Jura “Coeur de Chardonnay” Domaine Rolet, making my return to the office terribly depressing.

Here’s what we ate (seen on the plate from bottom left, going clockwise):

Garrotxa goat’s milk cheese, Spain

Mt Tam (right), cow’s milk by Cowgirl Creamery, California

Ossau-Vielle, sheep’s milk, France

Reypenaer, cow’s milk aged Gouda, Holland

Crozier Blue (below), sheep’s milk blue, Ireland

I will now try and replicate this plate for the rest of my life. And I think I’m inspired to taker her suggestion and enroll in Cheese 101 at the famed Murray’s Cheese in Greenwich Village.

Make Mine (Bargain) Virginia Wine

Visiting wineries in Virginia is usually fun and lovely but not always especially palate-pleasing or affordable.

The state does two things well: Cabernet Franc and Voignier, so if you don’t like the tobacco-y red or sweet-floral white, you’re usually out of luck. Plus, prices usually hover around $20 a bottle, which is too high for so-so wine.

So, I was pleasantly surprised to find a fine, Meritage at Blenheim Vineyards for just $10. A touch of oak and tannins with nice hints of cherry and plum. Not bad at all. In fact, pretty darn good. 

 

The winery, which is part-owned by Dave Matthews and run by his brother Peter, seems to be coming into its own with new winemaker Kirsty Harmon. They’re doing some smart things, like developing a rose ($14), another rarity in Virginia.

Blenheim’s tasting room had been open by appointment only until recently.  And the building is a beautiful spot to sit with a $10 bottle and picnic lunch. 

 

The tasting room is built with reclaimed heart-pine and features a cool glass floor where you can see to down to the barreling room below.

Breakfast Pizza of Champions

Let me begin by admitting that pizza is my desert-island food. I could eat it every day. But lets be clear, not that doughy, sorry excuse, Chicago-style, and definitely not with pineapple. Otherwise I’m smitten with that brilliant pie of my ancestors. So when I saw this New York Times Magazine recipe (adapted from the Big Sur Bakery in California), I jumped at the chance to make it for a crowd. The verdict: fantastico!
Hint: Save time and buy dough at your favorite pizzeria, then dress and bake.

Ingredients
Kosher salt
6 strips bacon
½ cup grated Parmesan
2 cups grated mozzarella
6 large eggs
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons minced
flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons minced chives
2 scallions, thinly sliced

1 shallot, minced.

Directions
1. Preheat the oven (and pizza stone, if you have one) to 500 degrees.
2. Fry the bacon in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat until crisp. Cool on a paper-towel-lined plate; roughly chop.
3. Dip your hands and a ball of dough into the flour. On a lightly floured countertop, pat the dough into a disc with your fingertips, then drape the dough over your fists and carefully stretch it from beneath to form a 12-inch circle.
4. Generously dust the surface of a large sheet pan with flour and place the stretched dough on it. Sprinkle the dough with half of the Parmesan, mozzarella and bacon. Crack 3 eggs over the top and season with salt and pepper.
5. Shake to make sure the dough is not sticking. Carefully lift any sections that are sticking and sprinkle a bit more flour underneath. (If using a stone, slide the pizza directly on in one quick forward-and-back motion.) Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, rotating after 5 minutes. When the crust is golden, the cheese is melted and the egg yolks are cooked, transfer the pizza to a cutting board. Sprinkle half of the parsley, chives, scallions and shallot on top. Let cool for 2 minutes, slice and serve immediately. Prepare the second pizza in the same way. Makes 2 (12-inch) pizzas. Adapted from The New York Times Magazine, adapted from Big Sur Bakery.

Tres Blessed

There just aren’t enough adjectives to describe the Tres Leches cake at Richmond Cuban spot Kuba Kuba, but heavenly, moist-as-hell, and damned delicious are a good start. This cute bodega-cafe run by chef Manny Mendez is a local favorite and great spot to bring out-of-towners. That’s exactly what happened last week when a group of friends and family gathered there to celebrate my birthday. Very lucky for me. Below you’ll see the aformentioned cake glowing because it’s pretty much angelic, with Manny proudly looking on from the left corner.

Manny’s mother bakes them fresh each morning. What are the tres ingredients, you ask? Condensed milk, evaporated milk and heavy cream. Not for the lactose intollerant. My heart goes out to them.  

Next time: the California Huevos Rancheros…

Greek Dinner at the Chef’s Table

Last night I took an unusual cooking class that was two parts food-history lesson and one part cookng class. Maybe you could say it was food theater but it seemed more like eating at a great restaurant and being able to ask the chef as many questions as you wanted. In short, it was brilliant.

The class was conducted by smart and sassy Susan Eckis, a local chef and contributor to Richmond Home. She’s fun and funny and proved extremely knowledgeable about the origins of Greek cuisine. Some basic bits: Seafaring countries have more diverse food because it can be imported more easily. In Greece’s case it’s between Europe and the Middle-East, therefore contains attributes of both. (O.K. there were also great wine parings so I don’t remember all the details.)

Mmmmmm … momofuku

It’s 35 degrees out and all I can think about is Momofuku Noodle Bar’s Ramen and Birkshire Pork goodness. And I’m sure I’m not the only one. This dish and this restaurant are no secret. Chef David Chang is the darling of the New York restaurant world having been named best new chef/restaurant by so many rags, even GQ named him Chef of the Year – do they even do that? New York magazine restaurant critics Adam Platt, Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld love Chang so much it’s almost embarrassing to read the reviews … and the best of lists … and the cheap eats write ups. 

But, oh, Chang deserves it. Lets take a closer look:The house noodle bowl combines Chang’s background: Korean heritage, southern upbringing and time in Japan. Just fatty enough, melt-in-your mouth Berkshire pork belly and shredded shoulder mingle in a stock made from chicken legs, roasted pork bones, ham hocks, and bacon. The perfectly compartmentalized toppings add a much needed veggie twist: scallions, snow peas, sliced bamboo shoots and sheets of nori that melt right in. But the pièce de résistance is the poached egg that breaks open and oozes warm yolk all in its business. mouth is watering now …And meanwhile you’re sitting on a bar stool watching the chefs put it together.

And this is what you’re starting off with: steamed pork buns with house-made pickles. 

Are you booking your flight now?

Momofuku Noodle Bar. 171 first ave. nyc 10003 | btwn 10th & 11th

Soup’s On

A head cold and the fall breeze inspired a soup-cooking kick this week. This Cheesy Chicken and Rice Soup from Cooking Light looks good and tastes hearty but the Velveeta gave it a strange processed taste. Normally a fan of Velveeta, here I wished I’d used shredded cheddar instead. It was clever, however, to sub milk and flour for cream, but next time, I’m going for full fat, true flavor. There was no fooling this head cold.

Ingredients

• 1  cup  uncooked quick-cooking wild rice
• Cooking spray
• 1  cup  chopped onion
• 2  garlic cloves, minced
• 3  cups  fat-free, less-sodium chicken broth
• 1 1/2  cups  cubed peeled baking potato
• 3  cups  2% reduced-fat milk
• 1/3  cup  all-purpose flour
• 10  ounce  light processed cheese, cubed (such as Velveeta Light)
• 2  cups  chopped roasted skinless, boneless chicken breasts (about 2 breasts)
• 1/2  teaspoon  freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4  teaspoon  salt
• 1/4  cup  chopped fresh parsley (optional)